TRUE GRIT, East of the Rundle in Canmore
Sept 24, 2024
Parking:
Whiteman's Pond parking lot
Approach:
The trail starts directly across from the parking lot. Follow it until you reach the cliff. From there, scramble right, and you’ll soon see the first anchor at the beginning of Pitch 1.
Route Considerations:
I climbed this multipitch with my friend Jason, an experienced climber who led all the pitches and linked most of them. The entire climb took us about 4 hours and 30 minutes from car to car. I found it to be a very physical route, especially on the feet. Although there aren’t many overhangs, it’s a continuous vertical and dihedral climb that relies heavily on crimps with minimal rest.
Pitch 1(5.10a):
The first pitch isn’t straightforward, which makes linking it challenging. Even with alpine quickdraws, rope drag can be an issue due to the route’s twists and turns.
Pitch 2 &3 (5.10a):
These pitches started with a vertical wall featuring small crimps and footholds. The holds were there, but spotting them required focus. At one point, I used a quickdraw to pull myself up—my hands and feet were tiring, and I didn’t want to risk an injury. There’s also a challenging traverse to reach a corner; it’s an exposed move with potential for a swing if you miss the crux.
Pitch 3 begins with a hand traverse under a roof. Jason skipped the first bolt, so starting far to the left was a bit tricky for me; I had to pull a lot on the rope for the initial moves. But once I got into the rhythm, the sequence was really enjoyable!
Pitch 4&5, (5.10a):
These pitches featured a fascinating corner section that required strong dihedral technique. I used both sides of the corner for support, making each move feel well-balanced. Pitch 5 involved some overhanging moves, adding a physical challenge that was rewarding to navigate.
Chilling on the big ledge before climbing pitch 4
Pitch 6, (5.10a):
This pitch also kept me on my toes with sustained difficulty, rounding out the route’s technical demands.
Descent:
We rappelled each pitch with our 80m rope. We had considered linking pitches with a tagline, but we ended up forgetting it, so single-pitch rappels were the way down.
It was satisfying to tackle a tougher multipitch. The climb pushed my endurance, as I found myself out of breath often, even though I barely took breaks. The route itself was a unique challenge, with technical variety throughout. Climbing with Jason added an interesting layer; he’s a strong climber who naturally gravitates to harder lines. We often took different paths—he made moves that felt like the 5.10a “direct” route, adding complexity and difficulty. Watching him climb revealed a lot about his skill and confidence on the wall.