Morningside, McGillivray in Canmore
Sept 17, 2024
🅿️ Parking
On Rte transcanadienne, there’s a pull-out between McGillivray Pond and the exit 105.

🥾 Approach
Simply follow the Heart Creek Bunker trail on Google Maps. The path is easy to follow.
🧗♀️ Route
I wouldn’t recommend this route for your first multipitch or first one of the season. It’s very runout, and I didn’t feel comfortable leading it. It’s still a beautiful climb, but I’ll admit I’m not the bravest when it comes to slabs, which made the experience mentally more challenging for me.
First Pitch (5.8):
Some technical moves here, which might feel more intimidating due to the spaced-out bolts.


Second and third pitch (5.7):
These two pitches were mentally exhausting. There's no communication with your belayer, and the climbing is runout slab, where you really can’t afford mistakes. The rock has good grip and should feel secure, but I was so focused on finding the next bolt that I wasn't paying enough attention to the actual holds—some of which were probably quite good.
I didn’t see the anchor for Pitch 2 because it’s slightly off-route to the right. I actually had a good idea where it was—I guessed based on a section that felt even more run out than the rest of the climb. But in the moment, I was so focused on finding the next bolt on Pitch 3 that I didn’t take the time to look for it. I confirmed its location when we rappelled. The spacing between bolts felt really far, and I didn’t want to risk a mistake at that point.
HUGH CLIMBING THE THIRD PITCH
Fourth Pitch (5.7):
Hugh led this pitch because I was mentally drained after the last two. This was his first time ever leading, after only a few climbs with me and his first multipitch just a few days earlier. He did amazing—no falls, no takes, and no signs of fear.
This last pitch is maybe a little less run out and actually quite enjoyable.
🧗♂️ Descent
We rappelled in three rappels with no issues.
💭 Personal Take
The route is interesting, but I wouldn’t recommend it if you're still working on your mental game. If you're the kind of climber who gets more focused on spotting the next bolt than looking for solid holds, this route might feel overwhelming—and possibly unsafe.
Climb it when you're mentally ready, or with someone who is. Otherwise, you might not enjoy it and could find yourself in a risky situation.