Riverrun, Tunnel Mountain in Banff
Oct 14, 2024
Parking:
We parked on the side of the road next to Buffalo Mountain Lodge. Not sure if there's a better parking option nearby.
Approach:
We likely took the wrong trail, as we ended up on a bike trail. However, we managed to cross through the forest to reach the cliff. If you take this path, pay attention for a trail on your right when the bike trail starts going downhill—it leads closer to the cliff.
Route Considerations:
I climbed this multipitch with my friend Patricie, an experienced climber. She led all the hardest pitches. The climb took us 5 hours from car to car. The hardest pitches are quite physical, so I recommend not carrying a large bag to make the ascent easier. Except for the first pitch, we enjoyed good sun exposure throughout the route.
Pitch 1(5.10a):
This pitch wasn't very obvious, and I found myself in tricky positions at times. Midway through, you have to traverse to the right to reach a large jug, but I found the move hard and had to pull on a quickdraw to reach it. I was climbing with a large bag, which may have added to the difficulty. The last part of the pitch felt easier.
Pitch 2 (5.10a):
This was a slab pitch and felt easier than the first. There’s only one tricky move in the middle, but it's well protected. The move doesn't have obvious handholds, but there's a good foot placement if you find it.
Picture taken from the top of pitch 2
Pitch 3 (5.8+):
I didn’t find it as difficult as its grade suggests. The holds were pretty obvious, with good hands and feet throughout. The challenge might come from the fact that it’s reachy, requiring high feet and strong pushes to grab good handholds. I enjoyed the style, which made me feel comfortable.
Pitch 5 (5.10a):
I had some trouble finding the best holds, and the last move of the traverse was a bit tricky. Finding a good position to conserve energy is key, but overall, there are plenty of rests along the way, so it shouldn't be too tiring.
Pitches 6 & 7 (5.10b & 5.10a):
The 5.10b pitch was very physical, with an overhang that made it hard to rest. The holds weren't great for long pauses, so you have to commit to a few moves before finding a resting spot. The 5.10a pitch was more enjoyable, with just one tricky physical move at the end where you have to place a high foot on a big jug you're holding.
Patricie climbing pitch 6 and 7
Pitches 8 & 9 (5.9&5.8):
The 5.9 pitch weas enjoyable slab climb with good handholds. It required balance and flexibility, with high feet placements and mantle moves. The last pitch was short but featured a nice dihedral.
Climbing pitch 8
Patricie on the last pitch
Descent:
The descent is a walk-off. The top of the climb is close to the main hiking trail and Tunnel Mountain's viewpoint. We’re not entirely sure if we took the shortest route back, as we ended up walking around Tunnel Mountain and cutting through the forest when we got near the lower parking lot of the Tunnel Mountain trailhead.
Overall, it was a great day out. The climb offered a variety of fun, challenging moves, with mostly sunny exposure except for the first pitch. Despite taking a bit of a detour on both the approach and descent, the route was well worth it. Patricie led the hardest pitches, so I was able to mentally relax. It was the first time I finished a multipitch so early—normally, it takes me the entire day, leaving me exhausted. But this time, I still had energy to relax for the rest of the day. A beautiful day of climbing in a scenic location!