Aftonroe, Mount Cory in Banff
Oct 15, 2024
Parking:
Backswamp Viewpoint Parking, located on the Bow Valley Parkway. Be aware that this road is closed during certain months in summer, so plan ahead
Approach:
- From the parking lot, the trailhead is across the road.
- Take the right fork when the trail splits in two, then scramble up. You’ll start to see the first climbs from the Take it for Granite crag.
Route Considerations
You’ll need some alpine quickdraws to link pitches. Most of the pitches are not straightforward, so route finding can be a bit tricky.
The Climb:
It took us around 6.5 hours from car to car. We also did the single-pitch “For Sure” to the left of Aftonroe. It was less exposed to the wind than The Wanderer because we were on the east side of Mount Cory. he first pitches were quite polished due to the route's popularity. Even on a Tuesday, we had a group behind us.
Pitch Breakdown:
Pitches 1 & 2 (5.7 & 5.6):
I felt it was pretty run out because the rock was very polished, so I wasn’t super confident in my feet. The second pitch is short since you walk along a big ledge, then climb two more ledges with very good holds.
Pitch 1
Pitch 2
Pitch 3 (5.7):
Thomas hadn’t climbed in a while and didn’t feel very confident leading because of the polished rock, but I felt it was better bolted than the first pitch. The last move was a slab move without handholds, but the crux was well-protected.
Pitches 4 & 5 (5.5 & 5.6):
A very easy scramble followed by almost a walk on a flat slab. For pitch 5, you reach a ledge with good jugs. The guidebook said it was 30 meters, but it felt shorter—maybe with the ledges, you need to use the full length of your rope.
First bolt pitch 5
End of pitch 4
Pitch 6:
The start of this pitch is tricky. There aren’t any footholds, and the next jug is quite far, making it feel pretty vertical. Thomas used the tree as a foothold, while I smeared on the wall, using the tree to support myself from behind. Once you grab the big jug, the rest of the pitch is fairly easy.
Pitch 7 (5.7):
This was a really nice 5.7 with a lot of high steps and some mantle moves. I felt very comfortable with the mantles and reachy moves.
Pitches 8 & 9 (5.6 & 5.3):
I don’t remember these pitches too well because it started to drizzle, but I do remember having fun climbing quickly on this easy slab.
Descent
We rappelled down each pitch. We were able to link pitches 7 and 6, and pitches 3 and 2, but the last rappel was very short with an 80-meter rope. Be careful and make your fisherman’s knots.
Overall, it was a fun and efficient day out. The climb had a good variety of moves, though the polished rock on some pitches made it more challenging. The route was well-protected, and we managed to rappel down smoothly despite some drizzle towards the end. Linking a few rappels helped us save time on the descent. The climb was definitely worth it, offering a great mix of technical slabs and fun mantle moves in a beautiful setting.